Domaine Leroy: A Voyage Across the 2019s

BY ANTONIO GALLONI&nbsp;| JULY 26, 2022Lalou Bize-Leroy's 2019s are off the charts. Even in
2019, a year marked by several pronounced heat spikes, the wines capture
tremendous expression of site. From the village wines all the way to the top
Grand Crus, the 2019s are simply breathtaking for their grandeur and sheer personality.

A woman of extraordinary conviction, Lalou Bize-Leroy has
the energy of someone half her age. There are no half measures, compromises or
grey areas here. She will answer the standard questions about weather, yields
and vinification, but her eyes really light up when it comes to any discussion
of place, the single greatest driver of what makes Burgundy Burgundy.

Yields in 2019 were a paltry 15.4 hectoliters per
hectare, tiny by any standard, even taking into account that dead vines are
typically not replaced. As always, the wines are aged in 100% new oak. "I
am not at all looking for oak influence, but rather to minimize risks by
seeking maximum hygiene. We take such care in our vineyards to have beautiful
grapes and low yields that it simply does not make sense to work with used
barrels," she explains.

The
hierarchy of sites is a fundamental concept. "It's a very good wine, yes,
and there is more structure than the village wines, but it is a 1er Cru, obviously. It is Volnay,” Lalou (as she is known to everyone)&nbsp;says matter-of-factly of her Santenots. "The Charmes is a
dancer, the Combottes is a peasant. I mean, take your pick, one can
choose," she says with a wicked laugh, leaving no doubt whatsoever as to
her preference. What can I say? I guess I have simple tastes.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1658849752217-Domaine+Leroy+Cover3.jpg">Not pleased
with the first bottle of Brûlées, Lalou
opens a second bottle. I think it is the first time I have encountered an off
bottle here. “There is an enormous difference between the two bottles.
Enormous!” she exclaims. “The Brûlées and
the Beaux Monts are the same vineyard, and yet the two wines are completely
different," Lalou says. "I would like to taste the Beaux Monts blind
next to 4-5 Richebourgs and see what happens.” On that subject, I tell her
Richebourg is not one of my favorite Grand Crus. "Mine either," is
the reply. "I prefer Romanée Saint-Vivant; Richebourg is
more vulgar. It's less deep than Saint-Vivant, that's for sure.” 

We move into
the Grand Crus. Once again, I have a strong affection for the Corton-Renardes,
probably because it was the first Domaine Leroy wine I tasted. I especially
gravitate towards the Romanée Saint-Vivant, Musigny, Latricières-Chambertin and Chambertin, all wines of
extraordinary elegance. The Clos de la Roche impresses with its balance.
"It's a sort of deceptive balance," Lalou says. “The Clos de la Roche
simply doesn’t have the finesse of the Musigny or Romanée Saint-Vivant, and it
never will. It is flattering today, but the other Grand Crus will grow more
over time.”

The Domaine
Leroy wines have always been expensive. In recent years, prices have reached
truly stratospheric levels that place them well beyond the means of most
mortals. When it comes to what is in the bottle, though, the profound beauty of
these wines simply can’t be denied.© 2022, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/2017-domaine-leroy-elegance-finesse-and-grace-sep-2020">2017 Domaine Leroy: Elegance, Finesse &amp; Grace</a>, Antonio Galloni, September 2020 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-leroy-the-bottled-2016s-jun-2019">Domaine Leroy – The Bottled 2016s</a>, Antonio Galloni, June 2019<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-leroy-the-2015s-from-bottle-mar-2018">Domaine Leroy: The 2015s From Bottle</a>, Antonio Galloni, March 2018

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